Is your money better spent on an entry level Rolex, a funky ‘70s chrono, or maybe a versatile diver or feature-packed piece from a respectable manufacturer that happens to have less mainstream brand recognition than the majors? Are you buying as an investment or are you simply chasing references that speak to you? We can’t tell you why to buy a watch, but in our video series, Under The Radar, we seek to simply shine a light on the pieces that we feel are underappreciated or a great buy for the money. In this installment of UTR, Craft + Tailored’s resident deal whisperer, Tyler Vanes, takes a look at a downright beautiful ‘70s Wakmann that hits not only just the aesthetic marks, but boasts features and a movement that would cost exponentially more if it bore major marque’s name on its dial.
The inherent aesthetic grandeur of most triple calendar chronographs is enough to grab the attention of anyone that considers themselves a member of the chrono cognoscenti, but to have all of those wonderful complications laid out on an eye-popping “reverse panda” dial adds something truly special to the equation that typically can’t be had for less than a small fortune. This ‘70s Wakmann Triple Calendar Chrono (ref. 750.1309) is a visual haymaker, but it’s also one that’s powered by a respectable and robust Valjoux cal. 730 movement, which is based on the legendary cal. 72 (and retains the 72’s famous reliability). We love that this Wakmann’s dial is undeniably complicated, but doesn’t feel too busy or illegible, and we also love that at 37mm, it hits the sweet spot between vintage and contemporary case sizes – giving it a striking wrist presence, but not an overbearing one.
There’s so much to love about this piece and it’s also one that we feel is guaranteed to appreciate in value as watches with similar appointments from better known brands continue to skyrocket in price. That said, these are still a steal at under $4k for a clean example. Check the link below to get Tyler’s unique take on this Wakmann and to take a closer look at the spell these rarities cast on the wrist.
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