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Essential Tools Every Watch Enthusiast Should Own

Whether you own one watch that you wear every single day or have an extensive collection that spans hundreds of different pieces, there are a few essential tools and accessories that every watch enthusiast should own.

Even if you never plan on opening up your watch to do so much as change a battery or take a peek at its movement, having access to a couple of basic tools can significantly expand your ability to interact with your timepieces and enjoy them.

Things like switching up the strap on your watch or removing a scuff from its crystal can easily be done from the comfort of your own home, and having the tools to do these simple tasks will save you numerous trips to your local jewelry store or watchmaker. Additionally, if you ever plan on traveling with your watches, you’re going to need some way of transporting them that will prevent scratches and damage (other than just wrapping them up with your socks). Regardless of whether your goal is to become more self-reliant or to simply get more enjoyment out of your timepieces, here are a few key tools and accessories (other than a decent loupe) that every watch-lover should own.

Spring Bar Tool for Changing Straps

Any watch enthusiast will tell you how switching up the strap on your timepiece can dramatically alter its overall look and feel. In less than a minute, you can take your watch from sporty to dressy by swapping out its metal bracelet for a nice leather strap. However, in order to do this, you are going to need a spring bar tool.

Now, spring bar tools exist at an incredibly wide range of prices, but the cheap ones really aren’t worth your time (let alone money). Beyond being flimsy and poorly constructed, a lack of precision in the actual shape of their components can make using them a serious pain (both physically and mentally). I’ve stabbed myself in the fingers countless times with crappy spring bar tools during the early years of my collecting journey and beyond the minor physical hazard, using a cheap spring bar tool increases the likelihood that you will scratch your watch or damage the spring bar itself.

When it comes to watch tools, Bergeon is widely considered to be the gold standard, and the Swiss company has a rich history that dates all the way back to 1791. Bergeon products are used by many of the world’s most prestigious manufacturers and due to their industry-leading quality, they typically occupy a premium price point. However, for something basic like a spring bar tool, a nominal investment of around $25 is all that’s required to get your hands on one of the very best spring bar tools available.

Bergeon makes two different versions of its standard spring bar removal tool. Both models offer the same core design with one end featuring a forked tip to grip a spring bar, while the other end features a small pin to compress the tips of spring bars fitted to watches with drilled lug holes. Additionally, on both models, the tips are entirely user-replaceable, meaning that you won’t need to buy a complete new tool if you accidentally manage to break the tip on yours.

The classic option is Bergeon No. 3153, which features a 3mm forked tip paired with a black polymer handle that includes a millimeter scale printed upon it. The 3mm tip is perfect for watches that use leather or fabric straps, and the built-in ruler is useful for quickly taking spring bar and lug width measurements.

Alternatively, there is also Bergeon No. 6767-F, which features a smaller 1mm forked tip paired with a stainless steel handle. While this version lacks a built-in ruler, the 1mm tip is ideal for watches with metal bracelets (particularly those with solid end-links), as it can easily fit into the small slots that are required to access their spring bars.

A high-quality spring bar tool is one of those things that’s hard to appreciate until you actually own one. However, once you do finally decide to add one to your tool kit, it’s hard to imagine going back to life without one.

Watch Roll for Travel

Having options is generally a good thing, and many watch collectors like to take a few different timepieces whenever they go on a trip. If you enjoy doing the same (or if you need a convenient way to bring your favorite watches to the next RedBar meet-up), you should consider picking up a good watch roll to keep everything organized and to protect your timepieces when you travel.

Tossing your watches into the bottom of your bag is just asking for them to inadvertently get damaged during transit, and stuffing them into various different pockets and articles of clothing only makes it more difficult to keep track of everything. While everyone’s travel requirements will be slightly different, most people just need something small and convenient that can hold a few watches and keep them safe from marks and scratches. And for this specific task, there is truly nothing better than a high-quality watch roll.

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Just like spring bar tools, watch rolls exist in a variety of different styles and at a wide range of price points. With that in mind, many of the cheaper options will suffer from poor build-quality or awkward design choices in regards to pouch sizing and closure mechanisms. Some poorly designed watch rolls might not fit your timepiece properly, but I’ve also seen some horribly misguided attempts that used strong magnetic clasps, which will almost certainly magnetize your mechanical watches during transit.

All things considered, you probably wouldn’t want to rely on a cheap dollar-store phone case to protect your brand-new iPhone, and the same is true when it comes to your timepieces. Given that a decent watch roll will likely last you the rest of your life, it only makes sense to buy a good one the first time and save yourself both money and frustration in the long run.

PolyWatch for Removing Scratches

Anyone who owns a watch with an acrylic crystal should also own a tube of PolyWatch. For less than the price of lunch, you gain the ability to quickly remove the vast majority of scratches and scuffs from your crystal, and a single tube of the stuff will last you a shockingly long time. 

Most people’s biggest complaint with vintage acrylic crystals is that they scratch more easily than sapphire. However, unless you do a serious number to your watch, any surface marks can easily be remedied with a tube of PolyWatch, a soft cloth, and a few spare minutes of your time. Back when I used to work in an office, I always kept an extra tube in my desk and I know some people who keep PolyWatch in their briefcases so that they can make touch-ups if needed during the day. You can literally remove a scratch in less time than it takes coffee to brew and even after years of using it, I’m still always pleasantly surprised by how well it works.

If you want to learn more about PolyWatch and how you can use it to repair marks and scratches on acrylic watch crystals, take a look at our complete guide on the topic, which you can find right here.

Extra Spring Bars for Life’s Mistakes

Most watch enthusiasts can identify with this headache-inducing scenario… you’re changing the strap on your watch, and out pops a spring bar. Whether that little bugger wins its freedom into a crack in the floor or simply disappears into thin air (probably the only actual proof of magic that I’ve personally encountered), that spring bar is now gone and you need to figure out a replacement.

Nothing is worse than having your favorite watch out of commission simply due to a tiny metal pin going missing, and having a few extra spring bars on-hand can save you a ton of swearing and an enormous headache. As someone who has had to explain to the folks at the Rolex boutique how I was an idiot and tried to change my strap while sitting on a shag carpet, I can promise you that it is always a good idea to keep a few spare spring bars in your tool kit. Think of it as preemptively covering your ass with an insurance policy that costs less than a sandwich at your favorite deli.

There are many ways to engage with the hobby of watches, and buying new timepieces is only one of them. By having a few essential tools, you can significantly increase the amount of enjoyment you get from your watches, while simultaneously making yourself less reliant on your local jewelry store or watchmaker. Plus, when you consider that you can purchase all of these essential tools and accessories for less than the price of an entry-level Seiko, it’s hard to come up with a reason why you don’t already own them.

Ripley Sellers is a freelance writer, editor, and consultant working within the watch industry. When he’s not covering a story or writing about the world of horology, you can usually find him hiking or spending time outside with his dog Ziggy.

 

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