While most of us can agree there is no more fundamental or important dive watch than the classic Rolex Submariner, there’s always going to be debate on which reference and appointments defined the quintessential Submariner. Is it one of the early models featured on the wrist of a certain James Bond? Did Rolex get it right from the start with the legendary “Big Crown” and “Small Crown” models? Perhaps you’re a fan of the model’s later evolutions and prefer it in more modern guises, like the decidedly more upscale-looking ref. 14060, with its glossy dial and white gold lume surrounds? For our founder and CEO Cameron Barr, the matte dial ref. 5513 is not just the perfect Submariner, but the watch that ignited his passion for vintage watches altogether.

Between being a “no-date” reference, its lovely and highly legible matte dial (which Barr describes as a “no bullshit” functional appointment), and its rare “meters first” markings, this watch is in many ways the Sub for people that want only the fundamental elements of a vintage Sub. After a brief hiatus, we’re happy to say that In this episode of our series What Is On My Wrist, Cam breaks down exactly why he thinks the ref. 5513 is the purest form of Rolex Submariner, why the examples that feature a matte dial best represent the ideal vintage Sub, and what subtle difference makes this particular example of a 5513 not only incredibly fetching, but a watch for insider’s that will certainly be the buzz of the watch hang. Think of these watches as the Submariner for people that drive vintage sports cars without air conditioning or traction control.