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1970s Aquastar Benthos 500 Chronograph Ref. 1002

Founded in 1962, Aquastar participated in the golden-era of the tool watch and – as its name might suggest – this brand specialized in purpose-built, professional dive watches. While Aquastar isn’t exactly a household name, even amongst watch collectors, the Aquastar Benthos 500 was the first dive watch to achieve a 500-meter depth rating!

This model also features a chunky, cushion-shaped case, and a “minute creeper” or “slow counter” chronograph complication! In this installment of our video series Under the Radar, Craft + Tailored’s very own in-house horological treasure hunter, Tyler Vanes, dives into the esoteric waters where the 1970s Aquastar Benthos 500 Chronograph reference 1002 swims and explains exactly what makes this funky “minute creeper” chronograph so unique, and why it represents such as strong value in today’s market!

The “minute creeper” or “slow counter” chronograph complication on the Aquastar Benthos 500 Chronograph ref. 1002 is displayed by the watch’s large, centrally-mounted orange hand, and controlled by the pusher located on the side of the case at 4 o’clock. Powered by the A. Schild cal. 2162 movement, the fourth hand on the Benthos 500 is actually a minute hand for the chronograph, which is continuously moving around the dial – making one complete rotation per hour. When you press the pusher, the hand jumps back to zero, restarting the measurement of time elapsed. Since the chronograph display consists of just a single minute hand that slowly creeps around the dial, this style frequently gets called  “minute creeper” or “slow counter” chronographs by today’s collectors. These were more famously seen on certain Breitling models in-period. 

The Benthos 500 reference 1002 was produced with either black or blue dials and bezels, and this particular example is of the blue variety, which offers a gorgeous contrast against the warm patina on its hands and hour markers. Just like other famous dive watches produced in similar colorways, like vintage Tudor Submariner watches, the blue examples of the Aquastar Benthos 500 are less common than their black siblings and typically command a premium.

Outside of the watch collector and enthusiast community, a lot of people don’t know about Aquastar, or simply remember it as a brand that they might have seen at their local dive shop back in the 1960s and 1970s. This has allowed vintage Aquastar watches to largely swim under the radar and as such, the prices of these incredibly cool divers have remained fairly reasonable – especially relative to their direct peers. However, when you consider that the Benthos 500 ref. 1002 is a purpose-built diver with a 500-meter depth rating that also has an unusual “minute creeper” chronograph complication, it’s obvious that these overlooked gems are likely to only increase in desirability and value as more collectors get hip to these unique dive chronographs. After all, who doesn’t love a true insider’s tool watch?

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