1986 Rolex Explorer II Ref. 16550

Only produced from around 1985 until 1989, the reference 16550 is the second Explorer II watch that Rolex ever produced, and it marked a significant turning point for the collection – both in terms of its aesthetics and its overall functionality. In addition to bringing about the arrival of a larger 40mm case, a high-beat movement, and a dial layout that much more closely follows the same core design as Rolex’s other sports watch models, the Explorer II ref. 16550 also introduced a number of other important features to the collection such as independently adjustable hour hands, a sapphire crystal, and the option of a white “Polar” dial. 

Often referred to as a transitional reference, the Explorer II 16550 laid the groundwork for all subsequent editions of Rolex’s rugged outdoor sports watch, yet it also features a number of key traits that separate it from every other Explorer II model. While the reference 16550 first introduced a white dial to the collection, its hands and hour markers were not finished black like they are on every other version of the Polar Explorer II. Instead, they are left with their natural polished white gold finish, which creates a striking appearance against the light colored surface of the dial. Additionally, just like the example featured in this week’s episode, you can find unique variations such as “rail dials” with their unusual chronometer-certification text spacing, and some of these early white Explorer II dials have even developed a rich patina that transforms them from bright white to a rich cream color.

For a brand with a design language as consistent as Rolex, it is often the smallest of variations and details that cumulatively work together to set one watch apart from the other. In addition to having a crisp unpolished case and simply being in incredibly well-preserved overall condition, watches like this particular Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550 with a cream colored “rail dial” serve as the perfect examples of how several small features can work together in harmony to create something familiar that somehow simultaneously feels entirely unique and special.