Between the mid-‘50s and the ‘70s, the Marine Nationale commissioned Tudor to produce robust watches for their combat divers. The various vintage “Snowflake” Submariner models that were made for the M.N., in particular, are incredibly sought after by collectors, but there are modern pieces in the Tudor lineup that not only harken back to those combat-ready mil-subs, but embody their spirit and even have the same direct connection to the M.N.! In this episode of our series What is on My Wrist, Craft + Tailored CEO Cam Barr does a deep dive and says “oui oui” to the 2022 Tudor Pelagos FXD – a watch we think is a killer take on a modern Mil-Sub.
In 2021, Tudor resumed its relationship with the Marine Nationale after many years of dormancy and the Pelagos FXD was the first new Tudor watch to sport the iconic M.N. on its caseback. At 42mm, the Pelagos FXD is a beefy and decidedly modern diver, but one that has plenty of vintage spirit and style and boasts visual queues from the beloved Tudor “Snowflakes” from the ‘60s and ‘70s in its handset, pointed crown guards, and dial appointments. It also features a fully graduated “navigation” bezel that carries on the utility of the classic “Snowflake” Subs.
This watch’s modernity is driven home by its titanium case, Super-Luminova luminous material, and the reliable cal.MT5602 movement that powers it. That particular movement and the watch’s lack of a date complication allows for the Pelagos FXD’s case to remain on the slim side, which helps tremendously in making the watch’s 42mm diameter feel wearable and comfortable. At a hair over $3k retail, these watches are a home run as a relatively affordable modern diver with not just a tangible connection to military use, but to Tudor’s important history.
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