Among these manufacturers, Longines is one that truly deserves much more attention than it’s received in recent years. Not only are vintage Longines watches almost universally beautiful and functional works of art, but they also carried within them many innovations that helped to drive the progress of the Swiss watchmaking world overall. In this episode of our series Under the Radar, Craft + Tailored’s very own champion of obscurities, Tyler Vanes, holds up a loupe and shines a light on a brilliant example of Longines’ fabulous mid-century creative prowess: A 1951 Automatic ref. 625C 2.
Powered by a reliable cal. 22A movement (which was the first in-house automatic movement Longines produced), this watch is a lovely example of Longines’ impeccable design language and ingenuity at a time that many would consider the brand’s peak. The 1950s were an undeniable golden period for Longines (and an important time in watchmaking as a whole) and this versatile model lives in the rare air between a sports watch and dress watch – which makes sense as it was produced at a time when the concept of a true sports watch was in its very infancy and the icons that defined the category – like the Rolex Submariner, Zodiac Seawolf, and Blancpain Fifty Fathoms – had not yet been released. This model was intended to be waterproof and featured a screw-down caseback, but sophisticated design touches like its sub-dial seconds hand, Breguet numerals, and a classic case shape (which is rendered in a decidedly beefier manner) offset this watch’s utilitarian focus.
At 35mm and featuring thicker lugs than most dress watches from the early ‘50s, this Longines has a decidedly vintage feel, but with a wrist presence that works with contemporary style. It’s a model and a marque that may currently fly under the radar, but we believe deserve your attention and will be increasingly collectible in coming years. Check the episode out in the video below!
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